Eyelash extensions are one of the most expensive semi-permanent makeup tools. It’s well-priced for all the customized work that goes into it. We get to create a style that’s perfect for the client based on their eye shape and the curl, length, and thickness of eyelashes.
All that isn’t a cakewalk if you don’t know the secret trick to do it right- Lash Mapping. It took me a few years to find the right material to get all the things right with lash mapping when I was starting out as an artist.
But you don’t have to, because I’ve combined my best of my results and experience in an easy-to-read format below so that you can learn without getting bored. You’ll find interesting videos from popular lash artists to help you get going. Find out all about lash mapping and how it helps you create the best eyelash extension for clients right away.
Believe me, when I say, lash techs don’t have it easy. That’s because we’re working a fragile part of the body- the eyes. That’s why many geniuses before us figured out the right formula to do it perfectly. All you need to do is learn it and start practicing on your own.
Let’s get sailing!
Table of Contents
[H2] What Is Lash Mapping?
[H2] Benefits Of Lash Mapping (300)
[H3] To Look Right
[H3] To Feel Right
[H3] For Customization
[H3] To Create Advanced Styles
[H3] To Prevent Mistakes
[H3] For Expertise
[H2] How To Determine The Shape Of a Client’s Eye? (700)
[H2] How To Map The Lashes Of A Client?
[H3] What To Remember Before You Start (300)
[H3] Things you Need (250)
[H3] Lash Mapping For Different Styles (800)
[H4] For Classic
[H4] For Natural
[H4] For Doll Eye
[H4] For Cat Eye
[H4] For Kitten
[H4] For Dramatic:
[H4] For Squirrel:
[H4] For Kim-K:
[H2] Things To Keep In Mind When Lash Mapping (300)
[H2] Too Long; Didn’t Read? (400)
Remember I said last month that lashing is like mathematics? Lash mapping is the trick that proves it. It’s the mathematics of dividing the eye into different zones to finalize the length of the lashes needed for each section of natural lashes.
The truth is you can’t just do a doll eye on every client and hope it all works out. You need to figure out the best style for the client based on their own preferences and characteristics of their eyes.
When I’m feeling my best, I like to play with curls and thicknesses of lash extensions that I add to the lash map I create. And when you’re well-experienced, you might need to write down every detail at the start.
But it is the practice of lash mapping that helps you decide the length, thickness, and curl of lash extensions on your clients in a few seconds in the latter years. If you ask me, it’s what separates the grain from the chaff in the long run.
Every lash artist needs to know about lash mapping and must do it for every one of their clients in the beginning to customize lash extensions based on the eyes.
Most of us know very well that two different people often don’t have the exact same features about both their eyes. But a little-known fact is that no person has identical eyes. Put simply, the left eye of the same client differs from their right.
That’s why you need to do lash mapping for every eye individually to do the best job. If you’re a beginner, don’t fret about the time you’ll take; instead focus on doing it the best way. And in the due time, you’ll mechanically do it faster than now.
Mapping every eye before putting on lash extensions is a must no matter how experienced or new you are to the field. It helps you in many ways. Take a look at the advantages of lash mapping for artists below.
First off, lash mapping helps you create a look that doesn’t look odd on the client. To make that happen, you need to take the client’s eye shape and different traits of the eyelashes into consideration. Making sure the lash extensions complement the length, thickness, and curl of natural lashes will make it look gorgeous on the client than artificial or over-the-top.
Next up is the compatibility of lash extensions. Mapping the lash job you’re going to do is crucial for ensuring the lash extensions don’t end up being a burden to the client. Creating a comprehensive map helps you select the right length, thickness, and curl based on the natural lashes. It makes you sure the style you created doesn’t feel heavy or irritating on the client’s eyes.
The goal of a well-experienced lash tech is customizing a look for the client’s eyes, not just for anyone but specifically for that client’s eyes. To do the perfect job, you need the right knowledge. Because every eye is different from the other, you need to customize the characteristics of lash extensions for every eye.
An effect of creating custom eyelash styles for clients is that you learn to play around with different styles in the long run. It helps to put together unique and exceptional new lash styles all on your own such that you can enhance any type of eye. You’ll know what’s right and what’s wrong from the get-go later on.
Many lash artists often forget to learn lash mapping in detail that they end up giving the same lash style to every client that walks in. On the other hand, you’ll never do the wrong style or repeat the same one once you know lash mapping inside out.
The best thing about learning lash mapping at the earliest is that you will accumulate so much experience that you won’t need to map once you become an expert. After the due course of time, you will draw the map on the back of your mind the moment you see a client.
When you’re a new lash tech, it’s possible you might not get too technical about doing the lash job. But that’s the pitfall that often leads the best of us into failure.
The first thing to keep in mind before even mapping the eyelash extensions is to determine the natural shape of the client’s eye. Only after knowing this can you determine the right length, thickness, and curl of lash extensions for the client.
Let’s learn the different eye shapes in detail and which type of eyes your client has.
This is an eye shape where you can’t see the whites below the iris when you look into a mirror. Another excellent way to determine the almond type of eye is with how it’s pointed around the inner corner and lifted up around the outer corner. You also have a smaller eyelid that forms an oval shape than round.
Remember that it’s not great to add length to lashes at the outer corner of the eyes for clients with almond eyes. This type looks great in most styles.
Celebrities like Mila Kunis, Rihanna, Eva Longoria, Beyonce, Jessica Alba, Kate Winslet, Penelope Cruz, and Kim Kardashian also have this eye shape.
If you don’t notice a crease immediately above your eyelid, your client most probably has monolid eyes. Given that your eyes are deep-set as well without a crease, then your client definitely has monolid eyes.
Often called Single-Eyelids or Asian eyes and confused with the hooded type, monolid eyes are a characteristic of East-Asian ethnicity. The best curls for this type of eye shape are the C or D and not J, especially if you want to open up the eyes. You must not use intense curls otherwise it can press against the upper eyelids of such a client.
Lucy Liu and Sandra Oh are some of the famous people with monolids.
Typically called ‘Big eyes’, round eyes are easy to locate. If the client has an obvious crease above their eyelids and you can notice white underneath the iris of their eye, they have round eyes. This type of shape often looks prominent and it’s best to use medium curls on the round eyes for a natural look.
If you want to transform round eyes to an almond shape, it’s best to add lengthy extensions towards the outer corner of the eye. Round eyes need extreme attention when it comes to eyelash extensions because the wrong curl and length can make their eyes look perpetually surprised.
Ashley Olsen and Katy Perry are some of the celebrities with round eyes.
When the space between the eyes of your client is less than one eye, you need to focus on accentuating the outer corners of their eyes. This helps to balance it. Closet set eyes look best in styles like squirrel or cat-eye.
Go for lash extensions that add length to the outer corners of your client’s eyes. You can also add thickness and medium curls for the best results. Add length right after the arch of their eyebrow to make it look balanced.
Jennifer Anniston, Kirsten Stewart, and Lana Del Ray are popular figures with close-set eyes.
When the space between both your eyes is more than an eye, it’s called a wide-set shape. This eye shape needs more attention towards the inner corners at first. It’s also best to add the longest lash extensions in the middle of their eyes to balance out the length.
There are many celebrities with close-set eyes like Miranda Kerr, Gemma Ward, Kate Moss, and Cameron Diaz.
When the eye of your client is pressed into the eye socket, it’s called a deep-set eye shape. This makes their eye appear bigger and brow bone prominent than they actually are.
Typically seen in the older category of customers, deep-set eyes are best paired with an equal or longer length of lash extensions for both eyes.
Lash techs must take special care to choose curls and lengths that don’t poke into the upper eyelid of the client. Make sure to tweak around different lengths and curls as it differs from client-to-client. Angelina Jolie has this kind of eye shape.
One of the main features on your client’s face would be eyes if they have the protruding eye shape. If you want to keep a natural look, the best lash extensions for this type of eye shape are the shorter ones. Longer lash extensions will make the client’s eyes look dramatic and over-the-top.
Amanda Seyfried and Nicole Richie are the perfect examples of protruding eyes.
When you can notice a crease that’s deep-set on the client and their eyelids aren’t visible, they have hooded eyes. This can also be the typical case with aged clients. Put simply, you will notice an added layer of skin covering the eyelid. Hence, you need styles that increase the size of their eyes.
Lash techs need to open the eye of clients with the hooded shape. The best trick to do this is by adding long eyelash extensions towards the middle of their eye. Ensure to work around different curl sizes by the client so that it doesn’t prick into their eyelid. Blake Lively, Taylor Swift, and Camilla Bell are some of the famous stars with hooded eyes.
This is a shape where eyes point downwards unlike upwards as we saw in almond eyes. The downward angle is visible around the outer corner of the client’s eye. Such a shape naturally makes the top eyelid look huge. So you need to add length to the outer corners of the eye to create a lifting effect.
The best lash extension styles to use are squirrel, open eye, and doll eye. Some famous persons with downturned eyes are Katie Holmes, Anna Hathaway, and Charlize Theron.
Lash mapping is all about a serious observation on your part. You need to be observant of your client’s eyes and lashes to understand what will enhance their look. It might sound sophisticated and tough at first but believe me, you’ll get the hang around it with time.
Here’s what you need to keep in mind before you start lash mapping a client:
Before you start working on the lash extensions of clients, you need a few things to make lash mapping easy, comfortable and convenient for both you and the client.
Experienced lash techs have a clear idea about the length, thickness, and curls of lash extensions that go into every different eye. Most often they don’t even have to map the zones. But if you’re new, mapping based on different styles will help you create exactly that style with ease.
Let’s look at lash maps for different eyelash extension styles.
The first style of lash extensions learned by most techs, Classic eyelash is also popular as the ‘natural style of eyelashes’. Here, lash extensions are applied on natural lashes at a ratio of 1:1.
For example, if your client has 70 natural eyelashes per eye, you should apply 70 lashes per eye. Typically, the number of lash extensions in a classic set ranges from 30 to 60 or above per eye.
When you do the lash mapping for this type of style, it’s important not to go for extensions that are too long in order to keep the natural look intact. We suggest trying out the lengths of 10, 12, 14 for the lash map.
This is a beautiful style that almost adds more size to the eyes of your client. It makes their eyes look bigger when you place short lash lengths on the inner and outer corners of the eyes. The best candidates for doll eye shape are those clients with almond eyes, hooded eyes, and monolids. Such a style is primarily used for opening up the eyes.
You need to spot the iris and create a zone including the iris so that you can add the longest lashes to this region. Such a style helps to achieve a bright look that opens up the eyes of your client. Here you can add individual extensions and flares or fans to complete the right look for your client.
Mapping for the doll eye style is quite simple. You need to create the largest zone in the middle encapsulating the iris so that you can add the longest lashes in this region.
Now comes one of the most popular lash extension styles called cat-eye. It’s a style where short lash extensions adorn the inner corners of the eye and long lashes do so for the outer corner of the eye. It’s a great choice for those with round eyes as cat-eye helps to balance (by adding tapering) the shape of the eye easily.
For an average client, Cat Eye goes best with CC curls with lengths varying from 8 to 9, 10, 11, 12, and 13. All you need to remember is to add long lashes to the second last zone of the lashes.
Here’s a video from Yegi Beauty to map a cat-eye exclusively for a client with droopy eyes.
The way to set apart the cat eye and kitten eye is the length difference between the shortest and the longest lash extension. For the kitten eye, the change will be around 25%. For example, if the shortest lash is 7mm, the longest would be 10 to 11 mm.
A perfect style for downturned and round eyes, the Kitten Eyelash Extension style uses short lashes until the pupil of the eye. After that, it’s ideal to jump in the length of lash extensions drastically. It’s also good for clients who don’t want the full cat eye but would like a portion of the same glam.
This is a style that’s dreamy, whimsical, and over-the-top at times. Ideally applied to young clients, dramatic eyelash extensions is a combination of the highest length, thickness, and curls with respect to the client. It’s sometimes confused with volume lashes, but that’s completely different.
Most lash techs strive for high intensity when they create a dramatic set of lashes. You can map it in a way that adds drama to the lashes based on the specific shape and texture of the client’s eye and eyelashes, respectively.
This is another natural-looking lash style where the longest lash extensions are added underneath the arch of the eyebrows. When you’re lash mapping for the squirrel eye style, it’s almost similar to cat-eye. The only difference is that squirrel eye doesn’t have drastic differences in length like cat-eye.
Squirrel eye follows a lash mapping pattern where different lengths of lash extensions are added one after another. There are more zones in this style than any other and it’s tougher to pull off if you’re a new lash tech. It’s excellent to open up your client’s eyes and make them brighter.
One of the revolutionary lash extension styles, Kim-K is one where a zig-zag pattern of lash extensions are used. As you can see in the lash map below, lash techs vary between different lash extension lengths to perfect this look. It’s based on the length of your client’s lashes.
For instance, if a client has short lashes, you might alternate between 10 and 11 mm lengths of lash extensions. For longer natural lashes, 10 to 14 maybe a good bet. Even for short lashes, make sure to add a 10% longer lash extension sparsely to perfect the look.
Lashing isn’t child’s play because if it was, you wouldn’t see a lot of mistakes. Every lash job would be perfect and customers would all look gorgeous no matter what. But that’s not the case.
From lash mites to botched jobs, there are a ton of examples today on poorly done lash extensions. While low-quality materials and poor experience do add to it, one way to do a better job is by getting acquainted with lash mapping. It’s essential for beginners and the most advanced lash techs will use lash mapping to customize the length to curl and thickness of lash extensions using their lash maps.
Mapping the eyelash refers to the method of dividing the complete eye of the client into different zones. It’s a way to decide on different lengths, thicknesses, and curls to use for eyelash extensions. Doing so helps you do a flawless job without doing the wrong style. It’s the best trick for customizing lash extensions like a pro and avoiding mistakes in the long run.
To do a good dividing job, you need to start from the iris of the client. Oftentimes, the center of the eye won’t be where the iris is. You need to note the outer corners of the iris as well as the eyes in the next step.
But before you get started with lash mapping, it’s essential to determine the shape of your client’s eye. Doing so will help you determine the right lash extension style for them. There are various shapes from almond to round, monolid, close-set, wide-set, deep-set, protruding, downturned, and other eye shapes to take into account.
Once you’re done, you need to instruct the client to keep their eyeball steady besides using the right products to prep their lashes for the treatment. You might need a cleanser, primer, diverse lash extension lengths, and curls to do a good job.
When you’re ready, you can decide on the right style for the client and follow the rulebook. For classic lashes, one extension is added per natural lashes but volume lashes use 6 to 10 extensions per natural lash.
Ranging from natural to baby doll, cat-eye, kitten, dramatic, squirrel, and Kim-K, there are many lash extension styles to choose from for clients based on the shape of their eye and characteristics of their eyelashes.
Lash mapping is the formula for customizing eyelash extensions. Every lash tech must know it inside-out. What’s more, you’ll be able to do lash mapping without having to draw in the long run too.
If you’re a new lash tech, learn how other techs got to be experts from their lashing interviews. get your own wide varieties of lash extensions in different lengths, curls, and thicknesses from Dolvlashes today.