Lashing is like mathematics. You need to add, subtract, and multiple different eyelash extensions and their features (think curl, length, thickness) to create customized sets of eyelash extensions for your clients.
When I first began on this journey, I didn’t know much. It took a long time to understand that length isn’t the most important thing for designing the best custom lashes for clients. There are a million more things on the list.
For starters, lash treatments require concentration and in-depth knowledge. It’s not straightforward because it falls upon the lash tech to decide and finalize one or more types of extensions that fit perfectly on your eyes.
The best way to select a good eyelash extension for your client’s eyes is by experimenting with the different features available. It may have to do with the eye shape, preferences, curls, age, attitude, length, thickness, size, shape, types, and other parameters. In short, there’s no boilerplate lash extension routine you can apply to whoever walks into your lash studio.
Today you’ll learn all about eyelash extension curls so that you can use them while designing the right lash for your clients and to teach them about it.
Read on to find out the complete details about what lash extension curls are, the different types of curls available these days including their meanings, makeup styles using different lash extension curls, how to maintain the curl of your fake lash extensions, and whether it’s good to curl eyelash extensions. This article will also help lash techs like you select the best curl for people you’re treating.
Let’s dive right in!
Table of Contents
If you’re doing eyelash extensions for prettifying people, it’s easy to understand the importance of lash extension curls.
When it comes to makeup, there isn’t anyone universal rule that fits everyone. From requiring a different foundation to contouring your face with a different or highlighting it with yet another, you need different products to applicators to complete your client’s look.
With most synthetic lashes, the fibers are pre-set to different contours to show the depth or flatness of the lash extensions. It’s a thermoplastic called PBT or polybutylene terephthalate that can withstand higher curls fibers made from real mink hair. This type of plastic can withstand heat up to 150 0C and its superior insulation properties even block UV radiation.
When you’re selecting eyelash extension curls for your clients, there are a million things you need to know to do a good job. It starts with knowing how these curls will behave physically, aesthetically, and chemically. One thing to keep in mind about lash extension curls is their angle. Moreover, the same curl of lashes isn’t even used for both your eyes when you get eyelash extensions.
You need to know how it looks to create the best look. Then comes the personal style or requirement of the client. Combined with thickness and length, this is the magic formula for creating the best lash extensions for clients: Length, Curl, and Thickness.
Whether you’re just starting
Whether you’re just starting out with lash extensions or are an expert, this section will help you outline the different curls in the industry. Keep in mind that curls of lash extensions are represented by different alphabets of the English language.
Take a look at the following curls to learn more about them that helped me learn from the many lash artists online and offline.
The first option in eyelash extension curls is the ‘I’ curl. It’s a straight lash style that’s adequate for those with straight lashes.
If you work on male clients, these can be an amazing choice of extensions. Owing to its straight look, ‘I’ curl lashes look most natural on people with straight lashes. It’s an excellent option for aged clients who’ve lost their curl and would prefer natural-looking lashes. I Curl is perfect for those who want to enhance the length of lashes instead of curls.
As a lash tech, keep in mind that this isn’t a good curl on downward or upward natural lashes. They are strictly good for straight lashes only.
When your clients want a slight tilt or curl to their straight lashes without going over-the-top, ‘J’ curl eyelash extensions are the perfect fit. It’s very subtle amongst the different eyelash extension curls. And, that’s why ‘J’ curls can open up upward-looking lashes to make them look brighter.
The angle of this lash extension curl is a 30-degree angle.
That being said, this isn’t a good curl choice for downward lashes. Besides lifting straight lashes, it’s ideal for the inner corners of the eye of any natural lash type. I suggest you avoid using these lashes at all for clients with lashes that are downward as it can make the eyes look tiresome, heavy, and small.
Now that you’re familiar with the basic lash curls, let’s get into the world of curvy lash curls. ‘B’ curl is a soft curl that also comes with superb retentiveness. While not being too-curly, ‘B’ curls can make straight lashes look accented. Basically, ‘B’ softly lifts those with straight lashes. Here, the angle is mostly 45-degrees.
With a higher curling factor than ‘J’ curls, these aren’t good on clients with downward lashes. Another professional tip to bear in mind is it opens the eyes of clients with upward lashes. You can also use this type of curl for the inner side of the eyes.
The standard curl used by most lash techs is the ‘C’ curl. It’s perfect for those men and women with average curls because it helps to open up the eyes and make the client look alert, bright, energetic.
For those with downward or heavy downward lashes, it can give a lifted look to your natural lashes. But if you have a client with straight eyelashes, it’s perfect for opening up the eyes. You’ll find that the degree is 60 with a ‘C’ curl.
For those also with lashes that curve horizontally, this type of lash extension curl can create the doll eye look. If your client has lashes that face downward, go for a D curl.
While some people say CC curl is the same as D curl, it’s a unique style that offers a good curl that’s not as curled as D, but higher than C. As C curl is closest to natural lashes, CC is a good way to slightly accent those with naturally curly lashes like teenagers. It’s the best way to add volume to natural lashes that are curled on their own. Lash techs might find these lashes at a 65-degree angle.
CC Curl helps to open up the eyes of those who have naturally downward-facing lashes. When you set it properly, such a curl can help you create the doll eye look for lashes that are straight. However, this style isn’t great for upward-facing lashes.
Curlier than CC and less curly than ‘U’, the ‘D’ curl is one Lifted. Creates the open-eye effect for the downward lash. These curls are often used for the dramatic style of eyes. D curl is best for doll eyes, especially if your client has straight lashes. Here you will see a 70-degree angle.
Although they don’t work so well for upward lashes, D curl is a great starter. It widens most eyes and enhances the shape of your client’s eyes. This is especially good for clients with small eyes who want to widen and brighten them.
Often termed as ‘U’ curl lashes, these lashes are curlier than your average lash extensions and fit perfectly for downward-facing eyelashes. It transforms downward and straight lashes into the widened doll-eye look in a few strokes. With obvious curls and added dramatic effect, ‘DD’ curls are excellent for opening the eyes of your clients with downward lashes. Oftentimes seen at 90-degree angles, the angle of this type of curl can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.
All that being said, don’t try this style of eyelashes for clients with the upward lash. These are typically used for creating volume and mega volume looks for clients who prefer dramatic fluff for their eyelashes. When used sparingly, it can make lashes look natural with a soft-look too.
If your client asked for curlier-than-normal lashes, this is generally what they mean.
The curliest type of lash extensions, the ‘U’ curl creates a dramatic effect for both straight and downward lashes.
While they aren’t a good fit for upward lashes, they create dramatic effects for other clients. It curls upwards and if you add it to clients with upward lashes, there are chances it might dig in or prick their natural lashes. If you’re a client with hooded eyelids or droopy eyes, pair them up with ‘U’ curl lashes and they will never come back to you. For clients with heavy eyelids too, this isn’t a recommended curl because this type of lash curl can swing back and touch the upper lids.
The curvature angle of this curl of lash extensions is 180-degrees. They’re even called the partywear lashes at most studios. ‘U’ curl lashes are excellent for monolids.
Considered a curl that behaves like a lash lift for clients with downward lashes, M Curl is dramatic if you zoom in on its upward-facing curls. It can enhance the eye by widening it unless your client has hooded eyes or lashes that are naturally angled upwards. It’s a perfect curl style for widening straight eyelashes too.
‘L’ curl is slightly curvier than the ‘M’ curl and comes with a square base, but it’s stronger than the former curl. It’s the best way to define the eyes of your client and make it look bright, beautiful, and vivid.
Here are some tips for working with ‘M’ curl lash extensions.
A perfect fit for Asian monolid eyes or those that are deep-set, L+ enhances droopy eyes to a whole new level. It was first constructed to maximize the lash lift. With a long and straight base, L+ curl for lash extensions curls in the middle of the extension, unlike L. It’s curvier than L, but still capable of looking natural when used proportionately.
Basically, L+ adds a lift to the L curl. L+ is the perfect option for widening small eyes, especially if they have straight lashes. This curl goes straight and 85-degrees.
Keep in mind that this type of lash curl isn’t a great match for downward lashes and upward lashes. It’s a great choice for ramping up the volume of your client’s eyelashes.
Here’s a video marking the differences between L and L+ lashes.
A lift on the ‘B’ curl lashes is called B+ curls. These are often added to mega volume sets and the best way to offer a lift to your client’s already curly lashes. They aren’t great for downward or upward facing lashes and work the best for straight lashes.
Technically, the angle of these curls is 50 to 55 degrees.
B+ is a unique curl of lash extensions that’s curvier than B, but less dramatic than C or CC. This is perfect for creating a natural look as it lifts your natural lash line without overcrowding the look or making it look artificial.
A client who wants lashes that are curvier than the ‘C’ curl, but not as dramatic as the ‘D’ curl will find the ‘C+’ curl ideal. Sometimes CC curl is often called the C+ curl but in my experience, C+ offers a slightly higher lift but that’s not equivalent to CC or D curl.
C+ is perfect for clients who have downward lashes, but it may not be the right fit for those with heavy downward lashes. When using it on those with horizontal lashes, C+ curl can create a dramatic doll eye look.
Often referred to as the ‘DD’ curl, D+ curl is unique and not as dramatic as ‘DD’. While it’s definitely more fun than ‘D’ curl, ‘D+’ comes with a slight tint of lift that works wonders on clients who have downward-facing natural lashes. It can open-up their eyes and even create the doll-eye effect.
Be wary to use it on clients with hooded eyelids or lashes with upward angles. ‘D+’ is the right style of lashes for volumizing natural lashes of clients with slightly-curly lashes.
For beginners and expert lash techs who face the problem of adhering fake lash extensions to natural lashes, EZ curl is a better alternative. That’s because this type of style comes with a longer base that’s straighter than lash curls. Offering a wide area for adding adhesive, EZ curls also lash longer on the natural lashes than other curls.
Depending on the type of curl you want, order EZ-J, EZ-B, EZ-C, or EZ-D curls with the latter options being curlier than the former.
As a lash tech, it’s important to learn all about lash extension in as-much detail as you can. If you’re sure of lash extension curls right now, the next step is to understand how different curls complement different styles.
Here’s the only checklist you need:
When it comes to maintaining the curling ability of your client’s lash extensions, the main thing is about retention of the lash extensions overall. If you choose the right curl, it will fit-in and go for a long time.
You can maintain the integrity of your curls by storing them at the right temperature. While PBT fiber is good at its retention capabilities, you need to ensure the heat isn’t too high when you’re storing lash extensions. Also, take care of the humidity of the space.
As a rule of thumb, higher curls will have lower retention and vice versa. Besides the retentiveness capabilities of curls, you should also educate your clients on the aftercare they need to do for protecting their curls.
Tell them to avoid steam and heat on top of not wetting their lash extensions for at least four hours after application. Depending on the style of extensions you have, it’s important to teach your clients what to care for and what to avoid.
When applying lash extensions to clients, it’s not easy to decide on what curl is perfect unless you’re an expert working with lash extensions for a decade or more. But if you’re a beginner, all you need to consult is the list of lash extension curls given below.
Before you start with the checklist, you also need to know how to pick different curls by the client. Start by checking the whole face of the client. Figure out where it’s narrow, broad, protruding, and so on so that you can decide which type of lash extension curl will work best for them.
The direction of their natural lashes is also important to ensure you select a good curl for your client’s eye. You also need to mark the arch of their eyes and eyebrows to create a good design. The trick is to mark where the arch starts. Start by adding maximum curl and longest extension to the part of the eye where the arch starts.
Let’s find the general rules of thumb now.
Deciding on the right eyelash extensions isn’t an easy choice, especially if it concerns your client. The trick is to study everything about lash extensions before you decide on a custom curl by the client. Among the three important rules of customizing eyelash extensions, the most important parameters are length, thickness, and curl.
The curling ability of eyelashes helps to contour the eyes of your clients. There are many different curls and in their chronological order of curling, these are I, J, B, C, CC, D, DD, U, M, L, L+, B+, C+, D+, and EZ curls.
Here, I and J are more or less straight with a slight curl that’s excellent for clients with straight lashes. It’s a good option for aged clients whose lashes have lost the curling ability too. C is a natural curl while CC is curvier, followed by D, DD, and U.
The last curl type is the most-curly and shouldn’t be used on clients for whom you think it might touch their eyelids. Most lash techs don’t use the ‘U’ curl on their clients. EZ curl comes with a flat base that’s perfect to avoid the lash curls from touching the eyelids of your clients. If you want an average curly look for your client’s eyes, CC and D are also good for opening most eyes.
When deciding on the right curl for your clients, always take their shape of the face and natural lashes into account. You can toggle between different curls based on the style they want. Go through the checklist or print it out so that you can use it as a reference in the near future.
It’s not the same curl for all types of monolids, hooded eyes, deep-set eyes, and so on too. Never stop analyzing your client’s eyes so that you can give them the best lash look.
Here’s a video from Frankie Widdows on how to decide on the right curl for your lash clients:
Deciding on the right lash extensions for your clients isn’t easy and you get better every time you do a fresh new set of lashes. The trick is to talk with your clients, research, and keep experimenting by listening to your guts.